Overview
The name goes back to a Han-dynasty brocade market on this ground, but everything standing was built in 2004. The lane is deliberately dense: lanterns overhead, bars at the west end, and a small stage for Sichuan opera face-changing. It is crowded every evening and worth accepting on those terms.
Highlights
Eat here rather than sit down for a meal — dandan noodles, sanda pao, spicy rabbit head for the brave. The teahouse courtyard is where the pace drops, and the face-changing show runs several times a night. Go at dusk, when the lanterns come on and before the evening peak.