Overview
The Kamakura warrior class favored function over the Heian court’s layered splendor. The hitatare, a top and hakama of the same cloth, became standard samurai dress, and armor was worn over practical robes.
Key garments and style
Women too shed the heaviest court layers; the kosode moved outward as everyday wear, sometimes with an uchikake robe draped over it or hakama below. Ease of movement now mattered as much as display.
Transition
In the Muromachi period the kosode would complete its rise to become the principal garment across classes.