Overview
The small-sleeved kosode, once underwear, was now the main outer robe for men and women alike. Men added the kataginu and hakama that would harden into the later kamishimo, and the sash tying the kosode remained thin.
Key garments and style
Under the Ashikaga shoguns the arts flourished, and Noh drama developed its own splendid costume (nogaku shozoku) in gold-brocaded karaori and other rich silks. The restrained taste of the tea ceremony also began to shape ideas of elegance.
Transition
The brief, opulent Azuchi–Momoyama age that followed pushed kosode decoration to new heights.