Overview
The coves are small, steep-sided and pine-backed, and the water over the white rock reads green rather than blue. The monastery of the Theotokos is free to enter, keeps a small museum and a working olive press, and asks for covered shoulders and knees. Above it, the ruined Byzantine fortress of Angelokastro guards the approach from a cliff three hundred metres up, and local tradition places the harbour of the Phaeacians here, which is a story rather than a finding.
Highlights
Take a small boat from the main beach to the caves and the coves you cannot walk to; the operators run from the jetty and the trip lasts under an hour. Climb to Angelokastro by car and then on foot for the coast view, not for the ruins themselves. Come outside midday in July and August, when the beaches fill and parking runs out.