Overview
Lan Na was a northern kingdom in the hills, culturally Tai Yuan rather than Siamese, and its dress stayed distinct from Ayutthaya’s throughout. What identifies it is not a silhouette but a technique: the patterned hem of the women’s tube skirt, woven to a standard that made northern cloth famous well beyond the kingdom.
Key garments and style
Women wore the pha sin, a tube of cloth stepped into and folded at the waist, with a short blouse or a cloth across the chest. The sin is made in three parts — a plain waistband, a patterned body, and a separate hem border — and the border is where the work goes. Woven in supplementary weft on a technique known as teen jok, the hem carries dense bands of figures and geometry, and its patterns identified the weaver’s district.
Men wore a wrapped lower garment or the chong kraben, and tattooing from waist to knee was widespread and expected of adult men in the north.
Silver was the northern ornament of choice, in heavy neck rings, belts and earplugs; cotton dyed with indigo, and later the plain indigo mo hom shirt, was the working cloth, with silk kept for the sin and for ceremony.
Transition
Burmese rule from the sixteenth century and Siamese authority afterwards left Lan Na politically absorbed, and the weaving survived the kingdom — the patterned sin is still made in the northern valleys.