Overview
The Fatimids built it as a Shia foundation; Saladin turned it Sunni in 1171, and every dynasty since has added a minaret, a gate or a madrasa, so the courtyard reads as eight centuries of building in one view. Teaching still happens here, and students sit against the columns of the prayer hall in the afternoons. Non-Muslim visitors are welcome outside prayer times.
Highlights
The white marble courtyard with its three minarets is the set piece, best in the low light of late afternoon. Dress modestly, remove shoes at the entrance, and expect to be lent a robe if needed. The mosque sits directly opposite Khan el-Khalili, so the two go together.