Overview
The khan was built as a caravanserai by the emir Jaharkas el-Khalili and grew into the commercial centre of Mamluk Cairo. Coppersmiths, goldsmiths and spice merchants still hold their own alleys, arranged by trade as they were six centuries ago. The tourist frontage on Midan Hussein sells alabaster and papyrus; walk five minutes north or west and the prices halve.
Highlights
El Fishawy, the café that has served coffee here since 1797, is the fixed point of any visit. Bargaining is expected and starts at about a third of the asking price. Come in the evening, when the heat drops and the lanes fill — and pair it with the mosques of al-Muizz Street, which begins a short walk away.