Overview
Four chapels stand at ground level with a fifth built on top, and the whole is coated in the lime wash that islanders renew by hand each year, which is what rounds the edges. The name means Our Lady of the Side Gate, for the entrance to the medieval castle that once stood beside it. Only part of the complex is open, and services are still held.
Highlights
Photograph it in late afternoon, when the sun comes off the sea onto the west face. The Kastro quarter behind it is the oldest part of the town and quieter than the main lanes. Dress modestly if you go in; it is a working church, not a monument.