Overview
The village was a captains’ town, and the larger houses along the rim belonged to nineteenth-century shipowners; the cave houses cut into the cliff below were their crews’. Most are now hotels. The 1956 quake levelled a great deal, and the reconstruction kept the vernacular form, which is why the place looks older than it is.
Highlights
For sunset, take the castle ruins early or watch from the path towards Ammoudi instead — the crowd on the main terrace is heavy from an hour before. The 300 steps down to Ammoudi Bay are the best walk on the island. Come out of season if you can: in August the main lane moves at a shuffle.