Overview
The character is different from Kuta a few kilometres south: fewer bars aimed at teenagers, more design shops and chefs, and villas rather than hotels behind the main road. Pura Petitenget, a sea temple in the Nirartha chain, sits between two beach clubs and holds its ceremonies regardless of them. The beach itself is grey volcanic sand with a strong rip current and a red-flag system that is worth taking seriously.
Highlights
Jalan Kayu Aya, still called Eat Street, is where the restaurants are; book for dinner in the July and August peak. The beach clubs sell day beds facing west and the sunset is the product, so prices climb after four. Traffic on the one coastal road is severe from five onwards — walking the beach is faster than a car for anything under two kilometres.