Overview
The mountain’s forest was protected from 1921 and is now a natural monument, which is why a primeval stand of hardwood sits within tram distance of a city of two million. The observation deck was rebuilt in 2011 with a restaurant and planetarium. The night view from here is marketed as one of Japan’s three great night views, alongside Nagasaki and Kobe, a designation that dates from 2015 and is taken more seriously than it sounds.
Highlights
Take the tram to Ropeway Iriguchi and the free shuttle to the base; the whole trip from Susukino is about half an hour. Go up before sunset and stay for the lights, which is when the grid becomes legible. In winter the summit is several degrees colder than the city and the wind is unobstructed.