Overview
The district grew to serve pilgrims to Yasaka Shrine and became the centre of the geiko and maiko tradition — Kyoto uses those words rather than geisha. Hanamikōji runs south from Shijō through the best-preserved street of teahouses; Shirakawa, north of it, follows a canal under willows and is the quieter half. The women you may see hurrying at dusk are going to work, and most of the people in full costume in daylight are tourists who have paid for a dress-up session.
Highlights
Walk Shirakawa rather than Hanamikōji if you want the district without the crowd; early morning is best in both. Photography is banned on the private side streets with fines posted, and the ban exists because visitors were blocking doorways and pulling at sleeves. Minami-za, the kabuki theatre at the west end, sells single-act tickets on the day.