Overview
The great red lantern at the Kaminarimon is the image everyone knows; the buildings behind it are post-war concrete reconstructions, the originals having burned in the firebombing of March 1945. That does not make the place less alive — this is a working temple with continuous incense, fortune slips and a stream of people who are here to pray rather than to look. Drawing a bad fortune is normal and it is tied to the rack to be left behind.
Highlights
Come at six in the morning or after nine at night, when Nakamise is shuttered and the temple is lit and empty. The shops sell tourist goods by day but several are old family businesses selling combs, fans and rice crackers. Asakusa around it is the flat, low-rise Tokyo that most of the city stopped being.