Overview
Kan’ei-ji stood here to guard the north-east of the shogun’s castle, and was burned in the battle that ended the Tokugawa; the grounds became one of Japan’s first public parks in 1873. The Tokyo National Museum holds the largest collection of Japanese art anywhere, including national treasures rotated through the galleries a few weeks at a time. Shinobazu Pond at the south end is covered in lotus in August and rowing boats the rest of the year.
Highlights
The National Museum needs half a day on its own; the Hōryū-ji Treasures building beside it is quiet, beautifully lit and free of crowds. In cherry season the central avenue is a party from morning to night — the pond side is calmer if you want the blossom without the tarpaulins. Ueno Zoo, in the same park, is where Japan’s giant pandas are.