Overview
Cortés ordered the Aztec ceremonial precinct demolished and the Spanish city built on top of it with the same stones, which is why the cathedral leans: it is sinking into the lake bed the Aztecs had built on. The Templo Mayor was found by accident in 1978 when electricity workers struck a stone disc of the goddess Coyolxauhqui, and its excavation removed a block of colonial buildings. The square is a working political space, and protest camps, concerts and official ceremonies all take it over in turn.
Highlights
Go up to a rooftop terrace on the south side for the whole square in one view; several are cafés and cost the price of a coffee. The Templo Mayor museum holds the Coyolxauhqui disc and is the best explanation of what was here before. The flag in the centre is lowered at six each evening by a military detachment, which draws a crowd.