Overview
The site was founded where three valleys meet, on ground with no water and no farmland, which suggests it was placed for politics rather than for living — a neutral capital above the valley’s competing towns. The Danzantes are its oldest carvings, several hundred stone slabs of contorted figures long read as dancers and now generally understood as killed or sacrificed captives. Building J, set at an odd angle to everything else, is aligned to a star and is one of the earliest astronomical structures in the Americas.
Highlights
Walk the plaza edge rather than crossing it, so the sightlines between the platforms hold. The Danzantes gallery is a short detour from the south-west corner and is easy to walk past. It is fifteen minutes by road from Oaxaca and there is no shade at all — early or late, and take water.