Overview

Barcelona rebuilt the quarter for the 1929 International Exposition, moving Gothic fragments from demolished buildings, adding the neo-Gothic bridge on Carrer del Bisbe in 1928 and reshaping streets to look older than they were. The genuinely old is underneath: the Roman city is excavated below the Plaça del Rei and can be walked. Plaça Sant Felip Neri still carries shrapnel scars from a 1938 bombing that killed forty-two people, most of them children.

Highlights

Walk the underground Roman city at the Museu d’Història first; the streets above make more sense afterwards. Go early — by ten the narrow lanes are a slow-moving line. Plaça Sant Felip Neri is a two-minute detour and is the quietest and most sobering corner in the quarter.