Áo giao lĩnh | aaarticle.com

The áo giao lĩnh is the cross-collared robe of old Vietnam, a long gown whose front panels cross left over right and are tied at the side. Worn by men and women of rank for centuries, it is the ancestor of later Vietnamese court dress.

Overview

An áo giao lĩnh is a wide-sleeved robe closed by crossing the front lapels diagonally across the chest, in the manner shared across much of East Asia, and belted or tied at the waist. Made of silk for the elite and worn over an inner tunic and trousers, it hangs long and loose.

How it is worn

It is wrapped left panel over right and secured with a sash, worn over layers for formality and topped with a cloth headband or turban. The colour, cloth, and any rank badges announced the wearer’s place at court or in the village elite.

History

The áo giao lĩnh was standard formal dress under the Lý, Trần, and Lê dynasties before the Nguyễn lords promoted the buttoned, panelled áo dài style in the south. It has returned to view through Vietnam’s recent revival of its historical dress.