Overview
The Zhou turned clothing into ritual. Dress became part of li — propriety, the ordered performance of relationships — so what was worn for which ceremony, by whom, was a matter of correctness rather than taste, and Confucian writers afterwards treated it as evidence of whether a society was properly ordered at all.
Key garments and style
The characteristic garment is the shenyi, the deep robe, which joins an upper garment and a lower skirt into a single piece, crossed at the collar and closed to the right, with wide sleeves and a sash. Its construction was given moral readings — the straight seam as uprightness, the level hem as fairness — which is a good indication of how the period thought about clothing.
For the highest rites the king wore the mianfu: a flat-topped crown with strings of hanging jade beads, and robes bearing the Twelve Ornaments — sun, moon, constellations, mountains, dragon, pheasant, axe and others — each read as a virtue of rulership. The set persisted in Chinese imperial dress for two thousand years.
Jade pendant sets hung at the waist were worn to chime as the wearer walked, which regulated the pace: dress enforcing deportment directly.
Transition
In the Warring States, King Wuling of Zhao ordered his cavalry into nomadic jacket and trousers, hufu, over strong objection — the first recorded Chinese debate about adopting foreign dress, and not the last.