Overview

North America’s contribution to world dress is not a garment so much as a way of making and selling clothes: standardised sizes, mass production, national distribution and advertising. The results — jeans, the T-shirt, the sneaker — are now so widespread that their origins as work and military kit are invisible.

Key garments and style

The rivet-reinforced waist overall was patented in 1873 by Jacob Davis, a Nevada tailor who had the idea, with Levi Strauss, his San Francisco supplier, financing and holding it jointly. It was work clothing for sixty years before Hollywood westerns and then postwar youth turned it into a garment worn everywhere.

The T-shirt began as a military undershirt and became outerwear in the same decades. The sneaker followed sport into the street. All three depended on a system: sizing derived from Civil War uniform measurement, ready-to-wear factories, mail-order catalogues that reached farms, and department stores that made trying clothes on a public entertainment.

Indigenous dress runs through the same period on its own terms, and powwow regalia — jingle dress, fancy shawl, grass dance — is living ceremonial clothing with its own histories, not a survival.

Transition

The pattern set here is what most of the world now wears, and the sportswear and casual dress it produced remain the reference point every other fashion capital works against.