Overview
The rival courts and wealthy cities each vied in luxury, and Italian fine textiles were prized across Europe.
Key garments and style
Women wore a gown — the gamurra or giornea — over a thin camicia, and men a doublet (giubbone) with hose. Slashing that revealed the layer beneath, and the balzo headdress, were in vogue; the patterned gowns in portraits of Eleonora di Toledo are the style’s peak.
Transition
In the later 16th century stiff, dark Spanish dress spread through the courts and the lead in fashion began to pass beyond Italy.