Overview
Division produced two clothing histories on one peninsula. In the South, Western dress became universal and the hanbok moved to ceremony, and Seoul eventually became a fashion exporter; in the North, dress was standardised and made from a fibre invented for the purpose. The starting point in 1945 was the same wardrobe.
Key garments and style
South Korean daily dress is Western and has been for decades. The hanbok is now worn for weddings, first birthdays and the Seollal and Chuseok holidays, and a simplified everyday version with practical fastenings and washable cloth has a steady following. From the 2000s, Seoul street style and the styling around K-pop turned the city into a reference point, with Korean brands and cosmetics exported on the back of it.
North Korean dress went the other way, toward uniformity and self-sufficiency. Vinalon, a stiff synthetic fibre made from limestone and anthracite and developed by a Korean chemist, was adopted as the national fabric precisely because it could be made from domestic materials, and it clothed the country for decades despite being uncomfortable to wear. The hanbok, called chosonot there, is standard formal dress for women.
Transition
The peninsula’s two dress cultures now diverge sharply, and the shared two-piece hanbok survives in both as the formal garment.