Fashion in the Inca Empire

Published: July 28, 2026 · Updated: July 28, 2026

In the Inca Empire, cloth was the highest wealth and power itself: men wore the tunic (unku), women a wrapped dress fastened with large pins (tupu), and the finest cumbi cloth was state-controlled treasure that the ruler gave as gifts.

Fashion in the Inca Empire — Author: Inca all-tocapu tunic (uncu), 15th–16th c Public domain Source

Overview

In the Inca realm that ruled the Andes, cloth was wealth greater than money, and dress mirrored the order of the empire.

Key garments and style

Men wore the square unku tunic, women a wrapped dress (aksu) fastened with tupu pins under a mantle (lliclla). The finest vicuña wool and cumbi cloth were offered to the ruler and the gods, and standardised designs (tocapu) marked rank and role, as did headdresses and ear ornaments.

Transition

When Spain conquered in 1533, Inca dress was gravely damaged and Western clothing was layered over it.

History of this period

Inca Empire c. 1438–1533