Overview
The Arab conquest changed who ruled Iran without changing how Iran dressed — and before long Iranian dress was changing how the caliphate dressed. Persian tailoring, Persian silk and Persian court ceremonial were absorbed by the new Islamic empire, most visibly once the Abbasids moved the centre of gravity east to Baghdad and took the manners of the Sasanian court with them.
Key garments and style
The male ensemble was a long tunic with a robe over it and a wound turban on the head. The characteristic Iranian contribution is the qaba, the open-fronted coat cut close to the body, which spread across the Islamic world from Spain to Central Asia. Silk weaving continued in the Iranian centres with its Sasanian repertoire of roundels and confronted beasts largely intact, now increasingly without the figural imagery of the older tradition.
The distinctive institution is tiraz: bands of inscription woven or embroidered into a robe, naming the ruler and often the workshop and date. Tiraz was produced under state control, and robes bearing it were given as khil’a, robes of honour, to invest officials and reward loyalty. Clothing therefore carried the sovereign’s name on the body of the wearer, and to accept a robe was a public act of allegiance — a mechanism of rule as much as a fashion.
Transition
The arrival of the Turkic Seljuks added the steppe wardrobe of coat, trousers and boots to this Perso-Islamic base, producing the Turco-Persian court dress that later empires inherited.